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THE
OLD PRINCELY COURT*
The
Old Princely Court area can be identified with the medieval
history of Bucharest, though continuity of human life in this
part of the town dates back to the 10th and 4th centuries b.C.,
as attested by archaeological findings.
Between
the 14th and the 18th centuries, the Princely Court polarized
economic, social and political life in Wallachia's largest town,
Bucharest, which has become, eventually, the indisputable capital
of the country around the year 1660, after having competed with
Târgoviste for most of the 17th century.
The
fact that Bucharest was at mid-road between the former princely
capital, Târgoviste and the Danube, at half distance between
the river and the Carpathian Mountains, that it was surrounded
by thick forests and lakes, having, just like the famous Rome,
hillocks among which the town spread out as we know it today,
had an utmost strategic importance. This is why, by the end
of the 14th century, Mircea the Old, Wallachia's ruling
prince, built a fortress with a dungeon and a defence moat;
it stretched over about 160 sq. m, and was to protect the town
from foreign invasions, particularly from Turks and Tartars.
One can still touch nowadays the brick walls of that fortress.
It stood up on a hillock down which flowed Bucharest's "Thames",
the river of Dâmbovita (whose name means "oak leaf"
and originates in Paleoslavonic, being relates to Bucharest's
natural environment rich in thick forests). Beyond the brick
walls of that fortress, the ruling prince, his family, courtiers,
soldiers, foreign guests, bondsmen, together with all the assets
of the princely court, i.e. cattle, horses, carts etc. must
have felt safe.
Ever
since the time of Vlad the Impaler (1456-1462; 1476),
the one who inspired Bram Stoker's fiction work about prince
Dracula, the fierce vampire, there is historic evidence that
Bucharest, mentioned for the first time in a written document
in 1459, played an important part in Wallachia's social, economic
and political life. Starting from the foundations of the 14th
century stronghold, Vlad the Impaler would extend the
princely residence to about 700 sq. m, would build large cellars
and would encompass it on its four sides with river stone walls,
still to be seen.
Mircea
Ciobanul, who ruled over Wallachia twice, between 1545-1554
and 1558-1559, was nicknamed "cioban" (shepherd) because
he had been a trader in sheep before getting to the throne.
He would turn the old fortress into a real princely residence
by changing its original structure, and by adding to it a chancellery,
a guard house, stables, a recreation pavilion, and the present
Annunciation church, which, alongside the vaulted cellars of
the princely court, can still be admired nowadays.
Mircea
Ciobanul's princely court would attract many a craftsman
and tradesman, who would gather around it with their commodities.
By the end of the 16th century, the inhabitants of Bucharest
amounted to 10,000 people, whereas the number of guilds was
of about 40. The shops, workshops and private houses raised
by tradesmen and craftsmen would bunch together around the Court.
So did a whole network of radial roads, the still existent narrow
lanes, which bear the names of their trade, i.e. goldsmiths,
hatters, saddlemakers, shoemakers, tanners, furriers, grocers
etc.
By
the end of the 16th century, most towns in Wallachia had become
commercial centres where country-side landowners would sell
the farm produces of their estates, and buy commodities brought
by merchants from abroad. The landowners (boyars) would buy
land in princely residential towns like Bucharest where they
would build not only residences for their own use, but also
churches, monasteries and shops placed in the town's trade centre,
or close to the market-place.
Mircea
Ciobanul's name may be remembered not only for his constructive
spirit and for his remarkable achievements, but also for his
despotic manners and taste for violence, which was not uncommon
for the morals of those times. For instance, in 1558, he would
invite to his Court for a dinner party some 200 boyars and high
officials. By his order, all of them would be stabbed to death
by his Turkish guards, as he suspected them to have plotted
against him. The tradition of cruel acts would be consistently
followed by his fierceful wife, Lady Chiajna, grand-daughter
to Stephen the Great, Moldavia's most prominent medieval ruling
prince. Otherwise an energetic and cultivated woman (she had
a good command of the Turkish and Arabic languages), she proved
to have few scruples and no mercy when she felt her own, or
her family's position threatened. Thus, they say that once become
a widow, she would frighten to death a bunch of boyars whom
she had invited to the Court for a dinner party: she theatrically
flung on her guests' table, full of exquisite dishes, the freshly
chopped off stained with blood head of a nobleman who had dared
lay a claim to Wallachia's throne (then held by one of Lady
Chiajna's younger sons).
But
punishment for those who would plot for the princely throne
was not always terminal. As the German diplomat Paulus Strassburgh
would note down in 1632, those who aspired to the princely throne
without having a right to, would be disgraced for life by having
their right nostril cut off. When passing through Wallachia
on his way to Constantinople as an ambassador of Sweden's king,
Gustav Adolphe, Strassburgh would also write, in one of the
few documents left to the day, that he had been highly impressed
by Wallachia's rich and diverse natural resources, i.e. gold
and silver mines, fertile lands and pastures, vineyards which
produced exquisite wines, plenty of cattle, fowl and game, fish,
horses, honey etc. He had been also pleased with the courtesy,
conviviality and hospitality of his Romanian hosts, namely prince
Leon and his boyars.
By
the end of the 17th century, the Princely Court stretched over
some 25,000 sq. m, and was the largest medieval ensemble in
Wallachia. Apart from Mircea the Old, Vlad the Impaler
and Mircea the Shepherd, it had been inhabited, restored,
modified and consolidated by other renowned Romanian ruling
princes like matei Basarab, Grigore Ghica, Gheorghe
Duca, Serban Cantacuzino (whose name is related to
the first print of the Bible in the Romanian language, in 1688).
But he who made the Princely Court flourish was Constantin Brancoveanu
(1688-1714). He extended the palace improving its appearance
by vast vaulted halls, among which the Throne Hall was famous
for its blue ceiling with golden stars and a suite of marble
columns in its middle. Constantin Brâncoveanu would also embellish
his residence with "una bella loggia", as one Italian
traveller would mention admiringly. He also added wall paintings,
marble stairs, a stone pavilion standing on stone pillars, a
watch tower with a clock (quite a curiosity for those times
in Wallachia), a marble Turkish bath, an Italian garden with
an arbour a.s.o.
The
formerly prevalent Eastern style of the Court was thus enriched
with elements pertaining to the Western spirit and culture (probably
taken over directly from Italy, from Louis the XIVth's France,
or indirectly, from Peter the Great's Russia).
During
Brâncoveanu's time, Bucharest had become the most thriving
town in Wallachia, and one of the main cities in the south-eastern
part of Europe. The number of guilds had doubled: from forty
ones during Mircea Ciobanul's time in the 16th century
to eighty of them, while its population had grown to 80,000
inhabitants.
Constantin
Brâncoveanu was a clever politician and diplomat, a most
prominent figure of the late Renaissance spirit in Wallachia.
Unlike his predecessors and successors who were continually
at war with their enemies, mainly the Turks, but also with Tartars,
Cossacks, Austrians, Germans, Russians or Hungarians, he had
a relatively long and quiet reign. This enabled him to found,
in 1694, whatever was to be called in the 18th century "The
Princely Academy", which is the Bucharest University's
ancestor. Moreover, apart from his contribution to the Princely
Court, he would build many churches, monasteries and princely
residences both in Wallachia and abroad. Brancovan architecture
combines Romanian traditional elements with decorative motifs
influenced by the Byzantine, Baroque and Renaissance art styles.
Among the historic sites relating to Constantin Brâncoveanu
and which, fortunately, were spared by the lapse of time, even
though they were restored several times, one may count St.George
the New Church in Bucharest, Mogosoaia Palace close
to Bucharest, and Horezu Monastery in the Vâlcea county.
Peace
with the Ottoman Empire was maintained by the versatile diplomat
Constantin Brâncoveanu by offering expensive gifts to the Turkish
high officials, for he was a wealthy person, the "Prince
of Gold" as Turks would call him. Unfortunately, Brâncoveanu's
wealth did not save him from a violent death. Accused by the
Turks that he had betrayed them in favour of the Austrians,
brought to Constantinople by force, imprisoned for some months,
during which he was put to the torture in order to confess where
he had hidden his fabulous fortune, vehemently refusing to give
up his Christian faith and become a Muslim, he would be eventually
beheaded by the Turks together with his four sons. Their fate,
the terrible ordeal through which Brâncoveanu and his sons had
to go, their martyrdom, would be acknowledged by the Romanian
Orthodox Church in 1992, who sanctify them every 16th of August.
Brâncoveanu's body has been brought back to Wallachia by his
wife, Lady Maria, and has been buried secretly in one of the
churches he had built, namely St.George the New Church in Bucharest.
From the Princely Court, the Turks had carried away to Constantinople
a great many of Brâncoveanu's possessions and assets: 40 carts
full of money and gems, the unique, richly ornamented, and most
valuable crown of Wallachian princes, 2000 golden medals bearing
Brâncoveanu's effigy, silverware, china, icons laid with gold
and silver, rare books etc. The legend says that much of his
fortune may have been hidden within the thick walls or in the
cellars of the Princely Court, while his savings had been deposited
in the treasuries of Venice. As nobody ever found anything,
they were all lost forever.
He
who followed Constantin Brâncoveanu to the throne, Stefan
Cantacuzino, added to the Court a "palazzino"
with 8 chambers, placed in the garden.
In
the 17th century, the Princely Court would fall into ruins,
being gradually ramshackled by earthquakes, fires or plunder.
The ruling princes had long ceased to live there. The first
Phanariot ruler of Wallachia, Nicolae Mavrocordat,
would use the Cotroceni Palace as his princely residence; in
1775, another Phanariot prince, Alexandru Ipsilanti,
would start to build a new princely court on the Mihai-Voda
hillock in Bucharest which would be burnt to ashes some time
later. By the end of the 18th century, the residence on Dâmbovita's
bank would be called the Old Princely Court, a place of evil
repute, where beggars, tramps, thieves, robbers, cheats, swindlers
of the town would meet, hide, or just use it as a shelter. All
that scum would be called mockingly The Idle Princes of the
Old Court, and later on become the subject of a homonymous
novel by Mateiu. I. Caragiale.
The
last notable event which took place at the Old Princely Court
was occasioned by the preliminary discussions of the Peace Treaty
concluded at Kutchiuk-Kainargi subsequent to the Russian-Turkish
war in 1773.
In
1798, prince Constantin Hangerli would sell by auction
the lands of the Old Princely Court; craftsmen, merchants, landlords
would buy them and raise their homes, workshops and shops, lending
to the area the commercial destination that was kept to the
day.
Archaeological
diggings started in 1953, continued in 1959 and resumed intensively
between 1967-1972 have brought to light traces relevant to the
history of the Old Princely Court like fragments of the brick
wall built in the 14th century, and of the stone wall raised
by Vlad the Impaler in the 15th century, the basements of the
princely residence with their vast and solid vaults, the walls
of the chapel within the palace, door and column frames cut
in stone, a bronze fibula, enameled pavement bricks, stone cannon
balls, a 2 x 2 m wall painting showing a military camp and dating
back to the 19th century, as well as various household objects
like earth pots, earth candlesticks, dolls of burnt earth, weights
for weaving looms, gutter tiles, iron tools etc.
In
the absence of old drawings, scale models or engravings, and
having at hand few and incomplete documents drawn by medieval
Romanian chroniclers, or by foreign travellers, Romanian specialists
find it difficult to reconstitute the plans of the princely
residence. Besides, it is an acknowledged fact that during the
rules of Mircea the Old, Vlad the Impaler, Matei
Basarab, Grigore Ghica, or of Constantin Brâncoveanu,
the court looked different, as each of them has brought important
spatial, functional and aesthetic changes.
For
the time being, the status quo of the present Old
Princely Court Museum is preferred to a thorough restoration
that may reconstitute but one of its historic stages to the
detriment of the other ones, which may somehow disconnect it
from the natural course of its history.
The
ruins of the old Princely Court make up a Museum by the same
name.
THE
OLD PRINCELY COURT'S CHURCH
Mircea
Ciobanul, who ruled Wallachia twice, between 1545-1554 and
1558-1559 respectively, built a church belonging to his princely
residence. It is nowadays known as the Church of the Annunciation
or St. Antony's Church, the oldest church in Bucharest
which preserved its original form.
Built
on the place of a former wooden church which burnt up, restored
after another fire in 1847, and over again in 1934, by the Commission
of Historical Monuments, the church was conceived in the Wallachian
architectural style of the 16th century: it singles out by its
harmony and balance of proportions. It has got a three-cusped
design, it is 25m long and 8m wide on the outwards; its narthex
is covered by a semicircular vault, and its nave has a belfry.
The decoration of its façades is made of face brick stripes
alternating with plaster stripes. At cornices, a series of small
decorated niches and buttreses which support the outer walls
remind one of the Moldavian style of architecture, a fact which
may be associated with the influence exerted by Lady Chiajna,
Mircea Ciobanul's wife and daughter to Petru Rares.
The
portal of the church, well-proportioned, and beautifully carved
in brancovan style,though probably too adorned as compared to
the simplicity of the edifice's façades, has been added by Brâncoveanu's
successor to Wallachia's throne, Stefan Cantacuzino,
in 1715. In the church, on the left hand side of the portal,
facing the apse, there are murals of the church's founders:
Mircea Ciobanul (whose tombstone is within the church)
and his wife, Lady Chiajna; on the right hand side of
the portal are to be seen ruling prince Stefan Cantacuzino
and his wife, Lady Pauna.
The
altar screen has wrought carvings covered with golden small
leaf, the iconostasis is decorated with symbols taken from the
Old Testament, whereas the apse holds original frescoes dating
back to the 16th century.
St.
Antony's miracle working icon holds place of pride among the
large silver icons of the church. It draws together many people,
especially on Tuesday mornings, when the church often becomes
toonarrow to hold them all. Antony is a popular, benevolent
saint, who, seemingly, has never failed to make a believer's
wish come true.
The
church of the Old Princely Court was the coronation place of
Wallachia's ruling princes for almost three centuries (between
the 2nd half of the 16th century and the 1st half of the 19th
century). In this Romanian "Westminster Abbey", Wallachian
princes used to be "unctioned", and receive God's
blessing during a solemn ceremony doubled by a popular feast.
After the divine service and after having been entrusted with
the princely crown, cloack, belt, handjar and sword, on their
way out of the church, the newly assigned princely rulers would
have to step on the fresh blood of two rams, which, according
to an old tradition, would grant them courage and strength.
In
front of the church, and resembling its architectural style,
there stands the vicarage. Built in 1935 by architect Horia
Teodoru, the parish house has its corners decorated with two
inlays representing the Annunciation by Nora Steriadi.
MANUC'S INN
In
the area of the present streets of Lipscani and Stavropoleos,
there used to be a great number of inns, which were part and
parcel of the flourishing commercial world of Bucharest between
the 16th and 19th centuries. Actually few of those inns resisted
to the test of time, of which the Lime-Tree Inn, built
up in 1833 and Manuc's Inn raised in 1808 by a wealthy Armenian,
Emanuel Mârzaian, called by the Turks Manuc-bei
(prince). They say that Manuc, a rich adventurer, who was also
a merchant and a political man, was the owner of a fabulous
fortune made up of money, gems, houses, shops, estates and even
mountains. After 1812, he was forced to leave the country for
fear of the Turks, and once arrived in France, he was adopted
by the French high-life society. He owned a stately palace and
was considered to be the most elegant foreigner who lived in
Paris. He was versatile in 12 different languages, and had many
love affairs. But the most sensational story about him, which
was also recorded by the press of the time, was an act of philanthropy:
the 100,000 FF he won at gambling one night, were all given
to the poor the next day. The Turks asked Napoleon I
to hand him over to them. But Manuc-bei learned about
it from the prefect of Paris, Fouché, duke of Otranto,
so that he fled away to Russia. It was there that he was poisoned
to death some years later.
Manuc's
Inn, one of the most beautiful samples of old town architecture
preserved in Wallachia, stretches partially over the territory
once held by the Old Princely Court. The plot of land was bought
by Manuc at an auction, and was located in the very commercial
centre of the city, with streets that still bear the names of
the tradesmen who populated the area, i.e. Lipscani - shopkeepers
whose merchandises were brought from Leipzig; Gabroveni - dealers
in clothes from Gabrovo, Bulgaria; Covaci - ironmongers; sepcari
- hatters and cap dealers; selari - saddlemakers etc. So, in
old times, Manuc's Inn was both a meeting and a resting
place for tradesmen and tradeswomen; it was known for its noise,
dirt and many carts. Many a traveller, even if they did not
put up there, would stop by just to have a look at the picturesque
yard and at the inn's superposed interior open porticos and
bedrooms.
The History
of Bucharest", Prof. Constantin C. Giurescu made
a lively description of Manuc's Inn. "In the yard
and on the corridors of the inn one could see a remarkable blend
of human types and costumes, i.e. merchants come from everywhere,
cart-renters, townspeople, clergymen, peasants, tarts, gypsies
moving to and fro, they would talk, haggle, conclude bargains,
quarrel." The inn was made up of a four-sided building around
an inward yard where "big carts from Brasov" and "caravans"
would go in and out. The one-storey building had vaulted cellars
which were deep and large. On their inner side, all along their
length, the basement and the 1st floor had open porticos supported
by wooden pillars between which would open three-cusped arches.
Access to the 1st floor was made by means of two wooden stairs
with belle vues. While the rooms on the ground-floor would serve
to passage travellers, people who would come for a longer time
would be lodged on the 1st floor. The outer sides of the inn were
trimmed with many shops that would put on sale a whole variety
of merchandises, whether Turkish carpets for a "decent price",
or "the best of" scents brought all the way from London
and Paris.
It is at Manuc's Inn that preliminary
talks of the Peace Treaty that put an end to the 1806-1812 Russian-Turkish
war* were held in 1812.
In 1842, the Townhall of Bucharest had its
main offices at Manuc's Inn for a short while.
About the year 1880, the inn had a hall that
hosted theatre plays and it is on its very premises that the
first Romanian operetta show was performed.
Before Romania
entered World War I, in 1914-1916, the "Dacia" Hall
at Manuc's Inn hosted meetings where public
figures of the time, salient Romanian political men or writers
like Nicolae Filipescu, Take Ionescu, Barbu
Stefanescu Delavrancea, Octavian Goga would claim
to the government that Romania
should enter war alongside the Entente's countries in order
to liberate Transylvania and Bukovina.
At present, Manuc's Inn has preserved, to a
large extent, its old style and flavour, it now serves as a
hotel with a restaurant, a wine cellar, and a cake shop. Just
like in the old days, there are many shops on the outer side
of its ground-floor. When one walks into the inn's yard, he
or she would step on an oak beam bridge and thus get a glimpse
on how streets in Bucharest might have looked in the 16th and
17th centuries.
The inn was restored successively, in 1848,
in 1863, in 1966-1970, and, more recently, in 1991-1992, in
an endeavour to keep unaltered its old structure, peculiar architecture
and traditional use.
*
It was then that Moldavia had to concede Bessarabia to Russia.
A
GLIMPSE ON THE LIPSCANI AREA, BUCHAREST
The
Lipscani area is a lively part of old Bucharest which polarized
various trades between the 15th-18th centuries. Its name comes
from Lipsca (Leipzig) as a reminder of the flourishing
commercial exchanges that were once made in Wallachia.
After
the earthquake in 1977, the historic area of Lipscani was often
threatened with demolition; when they started to build the so-called
Civic Centre on Ceausescu's order, in its close
vicinity, Lipscani entered an age of decay and oblivion. It
was partially restored after 1990, especially in the Banks
area, but most of the old houses and narrow sloping streets
still wait for some Prince Charming investor who may
return to them their formerly life and glamour.
Even
before the official foundation of Bucharest (September 20, 1459),
the Lipscani area represented the heart of the city.
Once the political and economic power concentrated in the area
of the Princely Court, around 1600, a lot of guilds and
shops came into being, and that is why the area would be populated
with goldsmiths, hatters, shoemakers, tanners, furriers, saddlemakers,
grocers a.o. Many streets in the area still bear the names of
those tradesmen and craftsmen. Along with the Romanians, there
were communities of Greek, Bulgarian, Serbian, Armenian, Jewish,
Albanian and Austrian merchants. This mixture of nationalities
is relevant for the flourishing trade relationships established
in old Bucharest, to the benefit of both shopkeepers and customers.
If
one takes an imaginary trip back into time, he or she can see
the shopkeepers out in the street near their stores, for they
never stood behind the counter; they would watch people from
the outside, encourage them to buy their merchandise, negotiate
prices with them, for each pedestrian could be a possible customer,
and thus contribute to their wealth.
Luxury
and poverty, expensive and cheap commodities were mixed up in
the same manner in which the Eastern world would meet the Western
one in this part of Europe.
There
were many inns built in the area for the tradesmen who would
stop by for business in Bucharest, or would be on their way
to other cities and fairs. Most of the formely known inns have
not resisted to the test of time; others can still be seen,
like the Inn with Lime Trees (1833) or the Manuc's Inn
(1808) - see also presentation.
When
walking along the by-streets of Lipscani, one can still be impressed
by the architecture of the one-storey houses built in different
styles: Renaissance, Baroque, Neo Classic, or sometimes a mixture
of them all, with their fine ornaments, baroque balconies, classic
façades and eclectic decorations.
At
the end of Lipscani St., there is the Smârdan St., where one
can find some banks built in the 19th century, i.e. the National
Bank (built between 1883-1885, and conceived by architects
Albert Galleron and Cassien Bernard in neo-classic
French style), Ion Tiriac Bank, the Bank for Agriculture.
After
having left the Smârdan St., one reaches the Stavropoleos
St., well-known for the famous Stavropoleos Church built
in 1724 by the Greek monk Ioanichie, in late brancovan style
(see its vegetal decorations: the belt with floral motives,
columns with flowers). Near the church, there is a "chiostro",
a yard with three covered sides, in which there are columns,
slabs and tombstones. The "chiostro" was designed
by one of the most prominent Romanian architects, Ion Mincu
who also restored the church in 1899.
Where
Stavropoleos St. meets Victoriei Avenue, there
is a famous restaurant and beer house, i.e. "The Beer
Cart" (1879). Both its façades and interiors are built
in Neo-gothic style (see pavement, columns, arches, chandeliers,
wooden staircase, furniture, mural paintings on the walls and
the ceiling). This place was much sought by famous Romanian
literary and political figures, who would often meet there and
discuss topical matters of their time over a mug of beer.
A
bit farther, across the street, on the Victoriei Avenue,
stands the Palace of the Savings Bank, an imposing and
well-balanced edifice built in the French academic eclectic
style by architect Paul Gottereau. The palace has a square shape,
a large central dome with metallic ribs separated by glass,
which allows natural light to come in; there are also four smaller
domes, whereas the main entrance has a monumental archway, supported
on both sides by two pillars in composite style.
Going
back to Smârdan St., one can admire the richly-decorated
building of the Fashion House (1881) built in neo-classic
style combined with Renaissance elements. The interiors are
as luxurious as one can expect for a fashion house: marble staircase,
columns with gilt ornanemts, stained-glass.
The
Lipscani commercial area was developed around the Old Princely
Court placed in the Princely St. (the present
French St.), the oldest one in Bucharest. It used to be
paved with oak beams by order of Prince Constantin Brâncoveanu
in 1692, and was designed to link his Princely Court
to the Mogosoaia Bridge (today's Victoriei Avenue),
which led right to Brâncoveanu's summer residence at
Mogosoaia. The oak beams come from the rich forests around
Bucharest can still be seen at the entrance of Manuc's Inn (1804-1808),
in the close neighbourhood of the present-day ruins of the Old
Princely Court.
May
you wish to buy a souvenir like an antique, an art, or a Romanian
folk object, glassware, a household commodity, or would you
look after a fine lady fur coat, the small shops in the Lipscani
area are there to please you.
THE
METROPOLITAN CHURCH
Consecrated
to Saint Emperors Constantine and Helen, the church is
situated on the Metropolitan Church Hill, and is a construction
of impressive proportions (28 m long in the interior, with a
14.60 m wide narthex). It was raised in 1656-1658 by prince
Constantin Serban Basarab. During Radu Leon's
rule (1664-1669), the church became the Wallachian Metropolitan
seat, as in the 16th century it had been moved from Târgoviste
to the Sf.Gheorghe-Vechi Monastery first, and then to
Radu Voda Monastery in Bucharest.
In
a document dated 8 June 1668, prince Radu Leon states
that "I painted and ornated it (the church) with all the
adornments". The structure of the church - three- cusped,
with an enlarged narthex, and four steeples above - reproduces
almost faithfully the plan of the See Church at Curtea de
Arges; however, its bigger dimensions and the large open
porch supported by twelve brick pillars differentiate it from
the latter.
The
façades are decorated with two registers of blind arches, separated
by a median stone belt made up of three mouldings twisted here
and there. The blind arches in the lower register are simple,
while those in the upper one are narrower and grouped in pairs.
The median belt is set between two rows of bricks placed in
a sawteeth pattern.
Out
of the old 1668 frescoes, only the icon representing the patrons
of the church was preserved and can be seen in the recess above
the porch door. Above the porch, there are several paintings
accomplished in 1935-1939 by D.Belizarie; they represent
angels, prophets and the twelve Apostles. In the narthex there
is the votive picture of Constantin Serban Basarab and
Radu Leon with their wives, as well as the portraits
of the Metropolitans who had the church restored or repaired,
among whom Patriarch Miron Cristea. It is also in the
narthex that stands a silver chest with relief ornaments, holding
the relics of St.Dimitrie Basarobov - the saint patron
of Bucharest - brought from Bulgaria by the Russian general
Salticov, and presented as a gift to the Metropolitan Church.
The
belfry in front of the church was raised in 1698 by Constantin
Brâncoveanu, and was restored in 1958. The Metropolitan
Church is the place where all official religious ceremonies
are held.
In
1688, the printing workshop of the Metropolitan Church
brought out the famous Bible of Bucharest, the first
complete translation of the Bible into Romanian, made by brothers
Serban and Radu Greceanu and issued on Serban
Cantacuzino's initiative. This work, a monument of the old
Romanian language, played an important role in the development
of the literary Romanian language.
During
the restoration works of 1799, 1834-1839, 1850 and 1886, the
old paintings were effaced, and certain changes and completions
were made. The most important repairs and restorations were
carried out by the Commission for Historical Monuments
in 1935-1939, and in 1959-1962, when the church was repainted
and got an aspect close to its present one.
THE
UNIVERSITY OF BUCHAREST
The
foundations of the present building of the University placed
in University Square were laid in 1857. For this very important
event a medal was stamped. It can be admired today in the Numismatic
Collection of the Romanian Academy.The building was erected
after a competition during which more offers have been analysed.
The winner of this competition brought together 70 Austrian
builders. The stone and the marble were brought from Pest (a
part of the present Hungarian capital, Budapest) on the Danube
to Giurgiu and afterwards in carts to Bucharest, as the railway
linking Bucharest to Giurgiu -port to the Danube- was constructed
only in 1869. Because of the lack of financial resources, the
building was inaugurated after twelve years, in 1869. The original
building had two floors and was constituted only of the part
that lines nowadays Carol Boulevard. The façade had a peristyle
with ionic columns and bas-reliefs made by Karl Storck.
Unfortunately, during the aerial allied bombardments in 1944,
the works of Karl Storck were destroyed. Initially, the edifice
also housed other institutions, as the Senate, the Romanian
Academy, the Central Library, the Antiquities and Natural History
Museum, the Art School a.o.
The
other wings were constructed under the direction of Nicolae
Ghica-Budesti between 1912 and 1926.
From
the 17th century to the first decades of the 19th, on the very
spot on which University Square is to be found today,
were the buildings and the garden of the Saint Sava Monastery.
It was there that functioned the 'High Society School',
which became in 1709 the 'Princely Academy', initiated
by Constantin Brancoveanu, a centre of culture famous in south-eastern
of Europe.
At
the beginning of the 19th century, after 1817, St. Sava
Monastery housed St. Sava College, the first superior
school with Romanian teaching. French was the teaching language
for a short time in 1847, but the 1848 Revolution reintroduced
Romanian. As there was not a clear-cut distinction between secondary
and superior school, this college represented both levels.
The
University was founded as a superior school
in 1864, four years after the Iasi University, the
first Romanian modern university. In 1864 it included the Law,
Sciences, Letters and Philosophy Faculties. The first doctor's
degree was given in 1873 by the Pharmacy Faculty.
The
University's 'golden age' was between the two world wars. It
ranked then, thanks to the quality of the teachers and the number
of students (15700 students), among the greatest universities,
along with Columbia University in New York, Paris
University, London University and New York University.
In
1945 this remarkable period finished brutally, as some of the
best professors were destituted, while some others were emprisoned
for having opposed, in one way or another, the emerging communist
régime. After several years, some of them could come back, but
the atmosphere was no longer the same, that of liberty of thinking
and open competition. After 1990, segnificant progress had been
recorded in the quality of teaching, with an increased number
of students. It has nowadays approximately 20,000 students and
14 faculties.
THE
ARCH OF TRIUMPH
It
is situated at the second circus of the Kiseleff boulevard,
at its intersection with Marshal Prezan and Marshal Averescu
Boulevards, near one of the south entries of the Herastrau Park.
The
first monument, a wooden one, was erected on the same spot in
1922. The actual arch was built in 1935 in Deva granite, by
Architect Petre Antonescu, who is also the father of
the Bucharest City Hall. It is conceived in classical style,
following the model of the great Arch of Triumph
in Paris.
Its
shape is that of a parallelipiped, with a 25 x 11.5 m basis
and a height of 27 m. Its span is 11 m high and 9.5 m wide and
has an arch of a circle at its upper part. The two feet of the
monument have interior staircases which lead to the terrace
of the monument.
Its
façades are decorated with stone carvings -bas-reliefs, medallions,
royal crowns and the effigies of Queen Mary and King
Ferdinand, who had an important contribution to the 1918
union of all Romanian speaking provinces. Famous sculptors like
Ion Jalea, Cornel Medrea, Mac Constantinescu, Frederick
Storck, Dimitrie Paciurea or Constantin Baraschi
contributed to the decoration of the monument.
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