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A
historical-geographic region situated in eastern Romania, organically
integrated into the ensemble, Moldavia measures approximately
400 kilometers from north (the boundary with Ukraine) to south(the
Milcov river, a symbolical boundary) and maximum 200 kilometers
from west (the Oriental Carpathians) to east(the Prut river, the
border with the Republic of Moldova).
Travelers
need to know that in current speech Moldova is associated with
the determinative “Upper”, meaning Bukovina
and the surroundings, “Middle”, the Neamt-Iasi-Vaslui-Bacau areas,
and “Lower”, including the so-called Vrancea Land. All the towns
feature tow-or three-star hotels, restaurants serving local dishes
and food on order: the national roads are sprinkled with models
and camping sites. The number of private boarding houses (agro
tourism) has been on the rise of late in the main tourist areas-a
more recent expression of the traditional Romanian hospitality.
HISTORICAL
LANDMARKS
About
6000 years ago on the territory of present-day MOLDAVIA the Cucuteni
culture developed, deemed “one of the most interesting and brilliant
Neolithic European cultures”; while vegetable growers and animal
breeders lived in fortified settlement, using big ovens for heating
and for baking. They created varied forms of ceramics decorated
with spiral-stylized motifs, symmetrical meanders, in equal colors.
The Cucuteni culture also influenced the geto-dacian settlement
on Batca Doamnei (Piatra Neamt, the first century B.C.-first century
A.D.) the only citadel with stonewalls from the La Tene age discovered
in Moldova. From the same period, the Barbosi (Galati) fortification
was superposed by an impressive Roman compound-camp, civil settlement
and necropolis (the first-third century).
Towards
the Middle Ages, there existed stable, well ordered settlements
(the towns of Baia, Siret, Radauti, Vaslui, Iasi,
Suceava, Targu Neamt, Galati, 1335-400). Around the years 1360
the independent Romanian state of Moldavia came into being.
MEDIEVAL
VESTIGES
A
self-relying state established by voivode Bogdan I (1359-1365),
Moldavia gave 500 years later the signal for the union with neighboring
wallachia (1859) and for a while took pride of place in the entire
country (1918), remaining a hospitable host for guests coming
from everywhere. This despite the fact that famed Moldavian princes
like Petru I Musat, Alexandru The Kind, Stephen The Great, Petru
Rares, Alexandru Lapusneanu, and prince Ioan The Terrible had
to cope with the devastating military acts of the Ottomans and
Tartars (15th –16th century)
Meeting
the requirements of the time, the Romanians princes erected powerful
citadels that proved capable of withstanding all hardships, including
the onrush of Mohammed II, in 1476. The massive walls, the all-encompassing
walls, the inventory of period items preserved at Suceava and
Targu Neamt are quite impressive. At the same time, the voivodes
founded princely courts (Suceava, Piatra Neamt, Iasi, Vaslui,
some of them under restoration now) accompanied usually by representative
churches, princely manors within monasteries (Bistrita-Neamt)
and even princely inns (Suceava).
MONASTERIES,
CHURCHES
Besides
the foundations appended to civil constructions, the Moldavian
voivodes and the grand boyars erected cult abodes, often in secluded
places, isolated in the mountains, in valleys, at the edge of
forests.
In
the Upper Land of Moldavia, in Bucovina, a brilliant period was
that of princes Stephen The Great, Petru Rares and Alexandru Lapusneanu,
followed by the Movila rulers (1466-1600), when the region was
decorated with churches that after 1530 were painted on the outside
with frescoes “open books with biblical contents, a “Sistine chapel
facing to the world” they proved easy to understand by everybody,
evincing a great originality of topics, purity of drawing, precision
of details of local influence, color refinement, all in all an
ensemble of exceptional artistic worth. “ Something similar cannot
be found in any other country of the world”, said Joseph Strzygowski.
These foundations are all put down in the UNESCO catalogue titled
“Great Monuments of the World”, and in 1975 they were awarded
the GOLDEN APPLE by FIJET (the International Federation of Tourism
Journalists Writers). They are part of the future National regional
park of Monasteries in Bucovina to be held under the auspices
of the European Union. In order of their decoration with frescoes
they are the churches of the monasteries Humor (1535, red prevailing),
Moldovita (1537, yellow-orange), Arbore (1541, green), Voronet
(1547, the celebrated “Voronet blue”), and Sucevita (1596, green-red).
To this we should add imposing architectural ensembles like the
Putna monastery (the first foundation of Stephen The Great, 1469,
princely necropolis), Dragomirna (1802, founded by metropolitan
Anastasie Crimca), Probota and Rasca (1530, 1542, erected by Petru
rares), Slatina (1561, the first foundation of prince Alexandru
Lapusneanu), the churches of Bogdana (approx. 1360, the first
masonry monument put up in Bucovina by voivode Bogdan), Patrauti
and Popauti (1487-1496, Stephan The Great), Balinesti(1493, chancellor
Tautu), Solca (1620, prince Stefan Tomsa). Everywhere there are
Museums of old art that exhibit valuable collections of silverware,
tapestries, cult items, books, manuscripts, and period furniture.
The
traditional cultural heart of Middle Moldavia remains the architectonic
complex of Neamt monastery (the 14th –15th
century) with paintings dating to the period of Stephen the Great,
a library from around 1400, history, art and local prints collections.
Dr. Andre Lwoff, a Nobel Prize winner, called Bucovina “ a monastery
archipelago”, an assessment that can be stretched to the entire
area, which, on a quite limited surface brings together highly
valuable monuments of past times: the Bistrita monastery (1400),
Pangarati (1558), Secu-Sihastria-Sihla (1602-1763), Agapia (1647),
Horaita (1725), Varatec (1808).
Components
of Middle Moldavia are also the localities within the geographic
perimeter of Iasi-Harlau-Bacau-Onesti-Vaslui-Husi, old centers
of Romanian culture where princes Roman I Musat, Stephen the Great,
Petru Rares built monasteries and churches that have been preserved
as models to this day.
Finally,
in Lower Moldavia there can still be seen the monasteries of Radeanca
(1628), Soveja (1645), Casin (1655), Mera (1735), Lepsa(1750),
Berzunti (1774), the masonry churches of Onesti (1494, Stephen
The Great) and Galati (1645, prince Vasile Lupu) as well as a
few interesting examples of wooden churches in the commune of
Ceahlau, at Putna monastery, in the country of Vrancea (Valea
Sarii, Vrancioaia, Straoane).
CIVIL
ARCHITECTURE
If
in the 14th –16th centuries Moldavia stood
out especially by its fortifications and cult abodes, in the 17th
private residences of note started to be put up. At Pascani, the
Cantacuzino erected the palace “with the richest ensemble of monumental
sculpture ever to decorate a civil building in Moldavia”. Prince
Alexandru Ioan Cuza established his summer residence at Ruginoasa
(palace, 1811), while at Miclauseni the palace of western inspiration
(1752) was restored, and in Iasi the Dosoftei Mansion (1680),
the National theatre (1894) and the palace of Culture (1926) were
erected. In Galati the Administrative Palace was set up in 1906,
the University in 1923, and the town ensemble is now ennobled
by several iron sculptures mounted on the town esplanade.
SPAS
The
spas in the regions are spread all over, mostly in mountain and
hill areas, boasting all the adequate amenities (hotels, villas,
treatment installation). At Slanic(1800), “Moldova’s pearl”, mineral
waters are used in the treatment of maladies of the digestive
and respiratory tracts, nose-ear-throat diseases, nutrition conditions.
In the Vatra Dornei resort, next to mineral waters (the chemical
composition of which was analyzed in 1806) peat mud is also used
to treat cardiovascular, rheumatism and hyper thyroidal conditions.
At Solca (1800), Strunga (1830) and Baltatesti (1839) the disorders
treated are rheumatism, gynecological, respiratory, digestive
and locomotive ailments. At Targu Ocna (1800) bronchi asthma are
treated (there are medical facilities in the salt mine) while
at Poiana Sarata and Vizantea, locomotive, gynecological, liver
digestive maladies are treated.
RESORTS
Durau
(elevation 800 m), at the foot of the north side of the Ceahlau
massif (elevation 1907m) is the main resort for winter sports
in Moldavia, appreciated as early as the time of Prince Dimitrie
Cantemir (1710) by numerous personalities of the Romanian culture.
Hotels, restaurants, ski runs, balneal treatment installations;
hermitage from 1830; The Ceahlau Festival, a folk event; The Ceahlau
nature reserve (fossil chalk, original relief contours, more than
1100 species of flower plants, 90 species of birds and mammals).
Winter sports can also be practiced at Vatra Dornei, Rarau, Soveja,
places also much sought after in summer for mountain trekking.
FOLK
ART
In
Moldavia it is proven one more time that the Romanians cannot
live their daily life without having an artistic pursuit. To understand
this suffice it to see the houses up the river Suceava or in the
commune of Ciocanesti, the collection of spoons in the town of
Campulung Moldovenesc, the painted eggs at Sucevita monastery,
the carpets of Humor, the black ceramics of Marginea, the flower
ceramics of Radauti or the brown one of Dumesti, the Tarpesti
or Nereju masks, the monastery weavings of Agapia, Varatec, the
carved stone and wood of Grozesti on the Casin Valley, and even
the smoked trout artistically dressed in fir rind served on the
Oituz valley, or the bed spread made in the area. The Museums
of Folk Art and Ethnography of Suceava, Radauti, Campulung Moldovenesc,
Gura Humorului, Solca, Vatra Dornei, Piatra Neamt, Iasi, Focsani,
Soveja provide an overall image. The already mentioned Ceahlau
Festival has already become traditional, being held yearly in
the resort of Durau, and including a lot of merry-making, dancing
and parades of folk costumes from all over the country.
VITICULTURE,
TREE GROWING
Cotnari
is a notorious name in Romania and abroad. On Catalina hill, in
a Dacian settlement testimonies were found regarding the growing
of vine and the making of wine more than 2000 years ago. Prince
Alexandru The Kind appointed a supervisor over the vineyards here
(after 1400), while Stephen The Great had a princely cellar (the
15th century) and Dimitrie Cantemir wrote in 1710 that
“I dare call it better and more refined than other European wines”.
Over
the years there existed the vineyards around the towns of Iasi,
Husi, Odobesti (from where Stephen The Great, Petru Rares, Vasile
Lupu used to export in the 15th –17th century).
Today, the same area extended to Nicoresti-Panciu-Cotesti represents
the biggest wine region in the country. The “Grasa” of Cotnari,
the “Busuioaca” of Husi, or the red wines of Nicoresti delight
the palate of connoisseurs.
The
vineyards are often accompanied by orchards (Cotnari, the hills
of Iasi, Husi, Nicoresti). Fruit areas there are also in Bucovina,
on the Uz and Oituz valley, and in Vrancei land.
NATURE
MONUMENTS
Even
if Moldavia does not stand out by the size of its territory, nature
proved beautiful here: there are tow mountain peaks, the Ceahlau
(Durau resort) and Rarau (Campulung Moldovenesc) protected in
natural reserves, then the heights of Cozla, Pietricica and Cernegura
in Piatra Neamt holding the richest deposit of marine fossils
in the country; at Gura Humorului, Vatra Dornei and Dofteana there
grow species of trees that everywhere on the globe are protected
in dendrological parks. At Bicaz Gorges, the Zugreni Gorges specific
fauna and flora develop, at Bosanci we see rare steppe and marsh
plants, and at Pangarati yew trees. Aurochs can still be seen
in the Vanatori-Neamt reserve.
“Copper
fields” and “silver forests” poetical metaphors related to the
area bespeak the common oaks and birches of Varatec. A successful
intermingling of the landscape can be found in Iasi, at the Botanical
Gardens (1856) the biggest in the country.
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